Diamond education

Wellington & Co fine Jewelers carries an exceptional collection of round, oval other and fancy shape diamonds. We travel the world to look for the best quality diamonds. The process starts with selecting diamonds that have been graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). All of our certified diamonds are graded by the GIA. Then each diamond is examined to meet our strict standards.

GIA certification is basically a diamond's report card. The stone is graded based on several factors, including the 4 Cs of diamonds. In the diamond business, we put a lot of emphasis on GIA certification. However, it isn't always obvious to shoppers why this is the case or why GIA certification should matter to them.

The reason a diamond's GIA grading is given so much weight is due to the organization's position and purpose. GIA is a completely independent organization. While gemologists might have some bias regarding the stones they painstakingly crafted themselves, GIA has no such prejudice. Since they're independent, they have no conflict of interest or sense of partiality. They can be completely objective.

Furthermore, GIA created the standards and benchmarks used to grade diamonds. You could say they literally wrote the book on diamond grading. The system they created is respected industry-wide and used across the globe. This means every GIA-certified diamond purchased anywhere in the world is graded using the same exacting standards, making them directly comparable.   

When you buy a diamond from Wellington & Co fine Jewelers you will feel confident that you’re buying the best quality for the price. One of our Graduate Gemologists or GIA trained associates will explain the benefits of each stone and help you choose the perfect setting to showcase your diamond.

Scroll down this page to learn more about the Carat, Clarity, Color, and Cut (4C's) of diamonds.

The 4 c's of diamond quality (Carat, Clarity, Color, & Cut)

Carat

Carat is the term used when discussing how much diamond you're getting. While many people associate the carat with diamond sizes, carat is actually a measure of the diamond's weight, not of physical diamond sizes. Each carat translates to a diamond weight of 200 milligrams. Just like dollars and cents, carats can be divided into points.

Carat is a diamond's measure of weight, not size. One full carat is equal to 100 points. A 3/4 carat diamond is the same as 75 points. Since larger diamonds are found less frequently in nature, a 1 carat diamond will cost more than twice a 1/2 carat diamond (assuming all other characteristics remain constant). The cut and the mounting can make a diamond appear larger than its actual weight. We can help you find the right balance between size, clarity, and color. The value of a diamond is determined by its rarity. Larger diamonds are not uncovered in the mining process as often as smaller diamonds. Thus larger stones are more precious and rare.

Interestingly — and most importantly for your budget — the price goes up significantly per quarter carat. Meaning, if you buy a stone that falls just below one of these thresholds (i.e., .24, .49, or .99) you can get a near-identical weight and diamond size for much less. These are known as "light" carat-weight diamonds. Buying a light diamond can ensure you get the very best diamond for your money.

Clarity

Clarity is the measure of inclusions and imperfections in the stone, which can affect how clear and perfect the diamond looks. GIA has diamond clarity scale educational guides to visually demonstrate the different grades. Here's a basic explanation of how it works.

Diamonds are a natural substance, and no two diamonds are exactly alike. Nature signs each of its creations with telltale inclusions, or internal flaws. A diamond with more inclusions will be less rare, so it will be less expensive. But this does not necessarily mean it will be less beautiful to the naked eye. Nature ensures that each diamond is as individual as the person who wears it. Naturally occurring inclusions such as minerals or fractures are identifying characteristics created while diamonds are formed in the earth. Inclusions are measured on a scale of perfection, known as clarity, which was established by GIA. The greater a diamond's clarity, the more rare and valuable it is.

A diamond with a large inclusion will impact the reflection of light, making the diamond less brilliant. Diamonds are graded with 10X magnification. Completely flawless or internally flawless diamonds are very rare. Most diamonds have tiny flaws or inclusions, known as nature’s fingerprints, which occurred when the diamond crystal was formed millions of years ago. When inclusions do not materially interfere with the passage of light through the diamond, they don’t affect its beauty. Without magnification, it is very difficult to see the difference between diamonds graded Flawless to Slightly Included, FL to SI. Most of the time inclusions are only visible to the unaided eye when the diamond's clarity reaches the Imperfect grades, I1 to I3. Clarity grades are based on the size, nature, relief, and location of the inclusions.

These are "eye clean" stones, meaning they do have flaws visible to expert gemologists under 10X magnification, but to the average person's naked eye, they look completely flawless and crystal clear. Choosing diamonds on the eye-clean sections of the diamond clarity and color guides will get you the most stunning-looking diamond for the best price.

Color

Color is the measure of the diamond's purity and colorlessness. Simply put, a perfect diamond has no color at all. Impurities in the stone will create a less clear appearance. Diamond colors are on a spectrum, and each has a grade.

The color of diamonds varies from colorless (highest quality) to many shades of yellow (less rare). The more colorless a diamond is, the rarer and more valuable it becomes as it appears whiter and brighter to the eye. Most diamonds have a slight trace of yellow, brown or gray body color. Color Grades are determined by using the letters of the alphabet. As the diamond reflects traces of yellow, the grading is reduced through the alphabet. The most respected system used today for evaluating diamond color was developed by the Gemological Institute of America, (GIA). Diamonds are graded on a color scale implemented by the GIA, which ranges from D to Z.

Diamonds are found in all colors, but most diamonds we sell range in color from D to I. Colorless diamonds are graded D to F. Diamonds graded G to J are in the near-colorless range. The difference of one color grade is very hard to see when the diamond is set. Diamonds are graded loose, under ideal lighting conditions and are compared to a master set for accuracy. Many of these color distinctions are so subtle as to be invisible to the untrained eye. But these slight differences make a very big difference in diamond quality and price.

The color grade, as part of the 4 Cs of diamonds, is separate from colored stones like pink diamonds. When it comes to vividly colored diamonds, the color actually makes them more valuable as they are rarer finds. Right now, colored diamonds are very in, and pink, blue, and yellow are the diamond colors taking center stage.   

Cut

Cut is the most complex and important of the 4 Cs of diamonds. Cut is the word used to refer to the diamond's shape (i.e., princess cut diamond). However, when used in the context of the 4 Cs of diamonds to assess a diamond's quality and price, it also refers to how well a stone is cut and proportioned.

The goal of this metric is to measure how well the diamond reflects light. This will depend on how many facets it has, the angles, and the proportions of the stone. The goal is to maximize the amount of light it reflects. Ideally, a diamond should reflect all the light that enters it back out.   

Cut quality is the factor that fuels a diamond’s fire, sparkle and brilliance. The allure and beauty of a particular diamond depends more on cut quality than anything else.

The GIA Diamond Cut Grading System for standard round brilliants in the D-to-Z color range is based on the assessment of seven components. The first three – brightness (the total light reflected from a diamond), fire (the dispersion of light into the colors of the spectrum), and scintillation (the pattern of light and dark areas and the flashes of light, or sparkle, when a diamond is moved) – are appearance-based aspects. The remaining four – weight ratio, durability, polish, and symmetry – are related to a diamond’s design and craftsmanship.

While GIA only has standardized metrics for round-cut diamonds due to their popularity and timeless beauty, cuts do have trends. Right now, oval-cut diamonds are in vogue for engagement rings due to their larger appearance and vibrant sparkle.

Reach out to our expert gemologists for extra help and guidance.